Missoni as an attitude: a spontaneous way of approaching the daily act of getting dressed, following intuition and instinct, writing one’s own rules, and bringing together things that belong to different worlds but which, when Missonified, come together.
This real dimension – a sublimation of the everyday is Alberto Caliri’s signature: a narrative that expands organically season after season, escaping the urgency of the new at all costs. Reflecting a brand and an aesthetic invented by a couple, the dialogue, which is ultimately fusion and confrontation between masculine and feminine is another salient feature, which in this collection becomes dominant, so that the Missoni woman begins to dress like a man, picking up things from his wardrobe and wearing them as they are, without renouncing her other self, sinuous and shimmering.
On one side, then, are the roomy martingale coats, the statement-making blousons, the shearling jackets, the blazers with sharp, pointed collars, the pleated trousers and the wide leather Bermuda shorts held up by a belt – solid and bourgeois classics in reimagined volumes – and on the other, the midi-length dresses that are slouchy on top and then cling and define the figure, and diffuse metallic flashes.
Tying it all together are long scarves, cowl necks, small knitted stoles, hats halfway between sea wolf and newsboys, pumps and flat ankle boots. Missoni-ism, meant as an amalgamation of patterns and colors,now plays on the idea of monochrome polychromy: different notes of the same color blend in tonal scales, drawing the eye closer and inviting discovery, while textures and details make the difference, revealing the agitation of three-dimensional geometries.
The palette revolves around organic notes of brown, tobacco, ochre, cognac, milk, and intense blue, while checks and fiammato motifs alternate with the clear cadence of vertical stripes.
The Missoni way reveals itself through layering, enveloping, and blending, without ever forgetting the body, its energy, and its character.
