Perfume Director and 9th Generation Family Member
Exploring Three Centuries of Perfume Craftsmanship
We are honored to present an exclusive interview with Mr. Edward John Bodenham, Perfume Director and 9th Generation Family Member of Floris, a distinguished name synonymous with luxury and heritage in the fragrance industry. In this insightful dialogue, Mr. Bodenham provides invaluable insights into the meticulous artistry and time-honored traditions that underpin the creation of Floris perfumes. With over three centuries of rich history and expertise, Floris continues to captivate discerning clientele worldwide. Mr. Bodenham eloquently elucidates on Floris’ unwavering commitment to craftsmanship, blending tradition with innovation to produce timeless fragrances that resonate with diverse cultures and preferences. As we delve into the fascinating world of fragrance creation and explore Floris’ enduring legacy, readers are invited to gain a deeper understanding of the brand’s ethos and vision for the future. Join us as we embark on a journey of olfactory excellence and timeless elegance with Mr. Edward John Bodenham.
Could you elaborate on the process involved in creating a new perfume?
Certainly. Our team consists of three full-time perfumers and two part-time contributors. When inspiration strikes one of us, we collaborate to generate ideas and determine the notes to incorporate into the perfume. However, if an individual has a particularly strong concept in mind, they may choose to work independently to ensure its realization. Our fragrances are crafted within the confines of our shop, a space imbued with historical significance dating back to the 1680s. This area also serves as the venue for our bespoke service. Located discreetly away from the bustling activity of Piccadilly, this tranquil setting fosters creativity, surrounded as it is by an array of fragrances, perfumes, formulas, and historical texts. We commence by identifying the essence or central theme of the fragrance before proceeding to assemble its components, from the base notes to the finer nuances.
What is the typical duration of this creative process?
The timeline for crafting a new perfume typically spans from six months to a year, though certain formulations have required several years of refinement and development.
What distinguishes Floris from other brands in the industry?
At Floris, each generation has received training from its predecessor, resulting in an accumulated legacy that infuses our creations. We possess a discernible “Floris DNA” that permeates all our endeavors. There are occasions when a fragrance may not exude the distinctive essence of Floris, prompting us to retreat to the back room where historical formulations were once devised. This space holds sentimental value and serves as a repository of tradition. I believe there’s an element of magic imbued within our fragrances, partly stemming from the utilization of ingredients sourced from archival formula books. Consequently, we are subtly influenced by these historical references.
Could you comment on the current demand for different fragrance profiles, such as citrus, floral, or woody?
While there has been a longstanding affinity for food-based notes like vanilla and beetroot, we have observed a recent surge in popularity for woody or smoky fragrances.
The recent release of “Santal Intense” has garnered attention. How would you describe this fragrance in three words?
“Santal Intense” epitomizes comfort, warmth, and sophistication. This formulation was conceived in response to requests from our Middle Eastern clientele, as well as a desire expressed by certain individuals for a more potent iteration of our original “Santal” fragrance. By intensifying the presence of amber and frankincense, we’ve augmented the overall olfactory experience.
Is there an aspect of Indian culture that inspired “Santal Intense”?
Indeed, the inspiration for “Santal Intense” stems from our original sandalwood fragrance, which traces its origins to Mysuru, India.
How do Floris perfumes resonate within the Middle Eastern market?
Our fragrances have enjoyed considerable popularity in the Middle East, although they diverge from the typical olfactory profiles prevalent in the region. Given their origin in London, some customers and critics have remarked upon the distinctly British aroma that our perfumes exude, although articulating precisely what constitutes this distinction can be challenging.
When did Floris first venture into the Middle Eastern market?
Floris has maintained a presence in the Middle East for eight years, with my personal involvement commencing in 2019.
With the impending 300th anniversary of Floris, what vision do you hold for the brand’s future?
We anticipate celebrating our 300th anniversary with great fanfare. Nevertheless, our primary focus remains steadfastly fixed on the creation of exceptional fragrances. As custodians of the brand, my sister and I are committed to upholding the standards set by preceding generations.
How many perfumes has Floris released since its inception?
Over the years, Floris has introduced several hundred perfumes, some of which have been discontinued. Notably, a price list dating back to the 1850s enumerates approximately 150 distinct fragrances available at that time—an impressive testament to our enduring legacy.
Can you provide insight into the current variety of fragrances offered by Floris?
We presently offer around 26 to 27 standard fragrances. Additionally, we cater to bespoke requests from discerning clientele, including notable figures such as Benedict Cumberbatch and Liv Tyler. Consequently, if bespoke formulations are included, our repertoire expands to encompass over a thousand variations.
How does Floris strike a balance between its rich heritage and contemporary trends?
Rather than adhering to fleeting trends, we draw inspiration from our immediate surroundings and everyday experiences, allowing creativity to flourish organically.
Are there any forthcoming projects or initiatives that you would like to share?
Yes, we are currently developing a new fragrance. During a recent olfactory exploration session with one of our suppliers, our perfumer Caterina became intrigued by the aroma of English canola oil. This encounter sparked her creativity, and we anticipate unveiling the resulting fragrance next year.
Could you highlight one or two particularly popular fragrances from your current lineup?
Certainly. “Cefiro,” a unisex fragrance, consistently garners acclaim for its universal appeal. Additionally, “No.89,” created by my grandfather in the 1950s and named after the shop’s address on Jermyn Street, remains a perennial favorite. It’s noteworthy that Ian Fleming, the author of James Bond, was known to favor this fragrance. “Cherry Blossom” also enjoys widespread popularity among our clientele.
Is there a message you would like to convey to our readers or patrons of our magazine?
It’s always a pleasure to engage with our customers and hear the meaningful anecdotes they associate with our fragrances. Their heartfelt stories serve as a reminder of the profound impact our creations can have on individuals, which is incredibly gratifying.
Lastly, do you have any message for our magazine?
I extend my heartfelt gratitude for featuring me in your publication. I eagerly anticipate perusing the magazine and discovering more about it, as it’s a new acquaintance for me.
