ELEGANCE REIMAGINED
Mohammed Ashi, a Saudi Arabian couturier and founder of Ashi Studio, made history as the first designer from the Gulf region to be invited as a guest member of the Fédération de la Haute Couture in Paris in 2023.
After studying fashion design and patternmaking at Esmod, Ashi gained invaluable experience at Givenchy and Elie Saab before establishing his own brand. Launched in Saudi Arabia in 2007 and later relocated to France in 2018, Ashi Studio quickly garnered a prestigious clientele, including Beyoncé, Queen Rania of Jordan, Sonam Kapoor, Deepika Padukone, Penélope Cruz, Diane Kruger, Rina Sawayama, and Billy Porter.
Mohammed Ashi established his brand in 2007 in Saudi Arabia, later relocating his atelier to Paris 11 years later. His journey in fashion began at Esmod, and after graduating, he honed his craft in couture at Givenchy and Elie Saab. These formative experiences helped refine his skills and expand his creative vision, earning him a place as a favored designer for royals and celebrities like Queen Rania of Jordan, Zendaya, Cardi B, and Beyoncé. His connection to his homeland remains strong, as he was recently appointed as a mentor for Saudi Arabia’s Fashion Commission, where he will guide the institution toward new goals in local fashion and social initiatives. Ashi also holds the distinction of being the first Saudi designer to present on the official Haute Couture calendar.
In 2023, ASHI Studio made history as the first Saudi Arabian brand to join the prestigious ranks of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM). This milestone allowed Ashi to present collections on the official Paris Haute Couture Week calendar, marking a significant achievement for both the designer and his country. Since his debut on the couture stage, Ashi has continuously evolved his brand, further refining his signature aesthetic that seamlessly blends intricate craftsmanship with a bold architectural approach.
Although Paris has become Ashi’s creative home, his connection to his Saudi roots remains strong. Recently appointed as a mentor for Saudi’s Fashion Commission, he has taken on the role of guiding upcoming designers and students on how to build their own successful brands. As he prepares for his latest Haute Couture collection, Mohammed Ashi reflects on what this new chapter means for him and the future of ASHI Studio.
A Vision Beyond Commerce
“Ashi Studio has always been about more than just commercial success,” says the designer. “Since joining the official Haute Couture calendar, the brand has shifted towards a clearer, more defined vision. Today, we stand with a strong message and focus, amplifying our unique style while continuing to evolve.” Ashi’s aesthetic, known for its sculptural, avant-garde designs, remains at the core of his brand’s DNA. “We’re experimenting more, pushing boundaries, and ensuring that every collection tells a story—an expression of creativity that speaks to both our audience and the fashion world at large.”
Ashi’s transition to haute couture was a defining moment in his career, but for him, it’s about more than just the title. “Being on the official Haute Couture calendar was a proud moment, but now, it’s about solidifying our presence and pushing our craftsmanship and aesthetic to new heights. Each season is an opportunity to strengthen the brand, and we’re committed to continually raising the bar.”
Reflecting on his recent Fall/Winter 2024 Haute Couture collection, Ashi explains that his creative process is often an emotional journey. “This season’s collection, titled ‘Sculpted Cloud,’ was inspired by a moment of personal reflection and emotion. At ASHI Studio, we frequently use the word ‘sculpted’ to describe our designs, which are very architectural in nature. This collection was an evolution of that concept, drawing inspiration from feelings and moments in life.”
As a designer with deep ties to the Middle East, Ashi recognizes the significant growth of Arab designers on the global stage. “The Arab fashion scene is evolving rapidly. Historically, the region has been consumer-driven, with evening wear as a strong category. But now, we’re seeing more diversity, including a rise in streetwear designers. I believe the next chapter in Middle Eastern fashion will be about modernity and edge, with designers offering something new rather than following trends.”
One of the biggest challenges Ashi faces is maintaining a consistent brand identity while pushing the envelope creatively. “Every season, there’s a fine line between evolving and staying true to the brand’s core. Balancing that can be tricky, but it’s also what keeps things exciting.” Despite the challenges, Ashi remains focused on the future, viewing each season as a step towards something greater. “Even though the brand has been around for 18 years, I still consider it young. There’s so much more I want to achieve, especially in Paris, where I hope to become more politically and creatively acknowledged.”
With ASHI Studio continuing to grow, Ashi has ventured into new realms of creativity, including collaborations with Riyadh Air. “Designers and aviation have a long history—icons like Balenciaga and Dior have worked in this industry. For me, working with Riyadh Air was a way to express another side of my creativity and represent the luxury and heritage of my home country.”
As Ashi prepares for the future, he remains committed to expanding ASHI Studio’s reach. “We’ve launched a new commercial line called 8pm and have exciting collaborations lined up, including international fashion shows in emerging markets like Thailand, Azerbaijan, and the UAE. The future looks bright, and we’re only just getting started.”
For Ashi, the journey is far from over. His passion for innovation, combined with his cultural heritage, ensures that ASHI Studio will continue to be a force to reckon with on the global haute couture stage. “There’s so much more to come,” he says, “and I’m excited for what lies ahead.”
