In the refined world of haute perfumery, few names evoke both emotion and artistry quite like Nathalie Feisthauer. With a career shaped by legendary mentors, international experiences, and a fearless dedication to creativity, her journey is as captivating as the fragrances she crafts. From discovering Opium by Yves Saint Laurent at just 16, to studying in Grasse and Paris, and later founding her own independent company, each milestone reflects a deep commitment to olfactory storytelling. In this exclusive interview for CP Magazine, Abdulwahab AlRefai — CTO and Business Development Manager at CZAR Fragrances — explores the inspirations, philosophies, and defining moments behind Nathalie’s timeless creations. Together, they delve into the essence of her collaboration with CZAR, the global influence of GCC perfumery, and the artistry behind standout scents like Gardenia, recently recognised at Beautyworld Dubai 2024. Prepare to be transported through a world of scent, vision, and passion.
Your journey as a perfumer is filled with timeless creations. What have been some of your most personally fulfilling milestones, and how has your creative philosophy evolved over the years?
My first milestone was Opium, from Yves Saint Laurent. I discovered it when I was 16 years old, I knew nothing about perfumes, my family was not into this field, but I instantly felt in love with this perfume. It was life changing moment, which revealed what I wanted to do in life. Then, I luckily had the opportunity to study perfumery in Grasse, and after it, in Paris with fabulous mentors: Jean Guichard (Loulou by Cacharel) and Edouard Fléchier (Poison by Dior).
My second milestone came when I was 25 and I was transferred in the US. There, I was exposed to a new culture, new inspirations and new way of working, which developed me as a perfumer.
Finally, my latest milestone is the creation of my own independent company, nearly 10 years ago. It allowed me to be closer to the creative aspects of my compositions, to have more artistic freedom, to be closer to my clients and to write a whole new page in my perfumer journey, suited to my aspirations and convictions.
You’ve created some remarkable perfumes for CZAR Fragrances. Could you tell us about the artistic vision and emotion behind your collaborations with CZAR, and what stood out to you while working with the brand?
I really like working with Czar, they give a lot of freedom to creators and we have fluent dialogs together to reach unique creations. This is how I was able to create Antelope and Gardenia. In their perfumes, we combine Middle East inspirations with a European touch, to seduce the GCC countries’ market. I, personally, think Czar perfumes can be appealing to many people, even beyond the GCC countries.
Gardenia, your creation for CZAR, made it to the finals of the Top 5 Niche Perfumes at Beautyworld Dubai 2024 — a prestigious recognition. What inspired the composition of this fragrance, and what does this achievement mean to you personally and professionally?
Gardenia was inspired by the beautiful flower itself, but I wanted to make it powerful, with very contrasting woody notes. I think it is an elegant and feminine signature, which could even be worn by men, thanks to its characteristic woody facette. It combines also European and Middle East visions. When I saw Gardenia was finalist at Beautyworld Dubai 2024, I was so delighted! It was a beautiful achievement, especially for a perfume exclusively sold in Kuwait, so being finalist was very encouraging.
In your opinion, what makes CZAR Fragrances stand out in an increasingly competitive market?
Do you believe CZAR has moved beyond competing with local or GCC brands and is now establishing itself among global luxury perfume houses?
In my opinion, Czar is definitely a company, which has the inspiration, the openness and the resources to develop beyond the GCC countries. I really wish to see them expand worldwide!
As a master perfumer, how do you assess the current state of the global fragrance industry?
Are there emerging trends, shifts in consumer preferences, or innovations that excite or challenge you?
In the actual very standardized world, with plenty of perfumes created thanks to consumer testing or in line with current trends. It is very motivating to see your own noun on a perfume bottle. Of course, you feel more engaged. You want to create something not only beautiful and to everyone’s liking, but also completely unique.
Looking ahead, how do you see the fragrance industry evolving within the GCC? What unique role or influence do you think regional houses like CZAR can play on the global stage in the coming years?
Since last 10 years, the GCC countries really influenced the world perfumery market, whether in Europe, America or Asia, with what we call “Oudh” notes. Whereas, they also imported the search of intense and powerful fragrances. This is an acquired taste, which nowadays expands worldwide and is still marking all of those markets. Another Middle East influence lays in allowing to indulge yourself, to buy sometimes more expensive but superior quality products. Czar is one of the Middle East companies that are inclined to open beyond the GCC countries, thanks to their singular and magnificent perfumes.
You’ve worked with some of the most prestigious brands around the world. What, in your eyes, defines a truly successful collaboration with a fragrance house like CZAR?
The people, definitely. When I was invited in Kuwait, I discovered a very friendly country, with a wonderful sense of hospitality. I was warmly welcomed, it was a pleasure to work with such people and to me, their kindness means everything. Working with Czar makes sense to me, because of their search of beauty, liberty, respect and humanity.
Do you have any visual artwork pictures of yourself, sketches, or creative elements you’d like to share that complement your olfactive creations? We’d be honored to feature them alongside this interview.
Yes, I’d be delighted to share a few photos and visual elements that reflect my creative process and journey.
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