☰ CP Magazine:

FROM LA SANTA TO TEGUISE

Every island has its signature ingredients. In Lanzarote, they range from the remarkable deep-sea carabinero of La Santa and line-caught local cherne to smoked salmon from Uga, award-winning cheeses, volcanic wines and the unmistakable mojo, the Canary Islands’ emblematic sauce of olive oil, garlic, peppers and spices. At Restaurante Palacio Ico, hidden inside a beautifully restored manor house in the historic village of Teguise, they become the foundations of a tasting menu that captures Lanzarote with remarkable honesty, one thoughtful course at a time.

There are some ingredients that tell the story of an island. Few do so more beautifully than the Carabinero de La Santa, one of the Atlantic’s most remarkable culinary discoveries. Although the species had long existed in Canary waters, it remained virtually unknown until 2020, when the Olivero family, fishermen from the tiny village of La Santa on Lanzarote’s rugged western coast began bringing up astonishing crimson prawns from depths of between 700 and 900 metres. Today, with just three small fishing boats, they remain the almost exclusive custodians of one of the island’s greatest gastronomic treasures, carefully guarding the location of the deep-water fishing grounds that produce these extraordinary shellfish. Their sweet, delicate flesh has rapidly earned an almost mythical reputation among the Canary Islands’ finest chefs.

Palacio Ico is one of the few places where you are likely to experience it. Not because the restaurant has built its reputation around a single ingredient, but because it has quietly become one of Lanzarote’s most eloquent ambassadors for local produce. Dining here is less about chasing culinary trends than discovering an island through its flavours, an experience that feels as essential to understanding Lanzarote as visiting Timanfaya, wandering through Jameos del Agua or watching the Atlantic break against the cliffs of Los Hervideros.

Housed within a beautifully restored eighteenth-century manor house in the historic heart of Teguise, Palacio Ico immediately sets the tone. The dining room combines contemporary elegance with the quiet character of traditional Canarian architecture, while the leafy courtyard offers one of the island’s most atmospheric settings for dinner beneath the stars. Original artworks, handcrafted ceramics by Lanzarote artists, bespoke lighting inspired by Heidi Bucher and carefully curated design details create an atmosphere where art, history and hospitality coexist with remarkable natural ease.

It is exactly the kind of place César Manrique would have understood.

Palacio Ico is the vision of Sonsoles López and Eduardo Riestra, who imagined something far more ambitious than another boutique hotel with an excellent restaurant. Their ambition was to create a destination where hospitality, culture and gastronomy could become part of the same conversation, helping to shape what they describe as a new Canarian cuisine — one rooted in the island’s traditions, enriched by contemporary technique and built upon an uncompromising respect for local producers. It is a philosophy that feels perfectly at home in Lanzarote, where authenticity has always mattered more than spectacle.

Bringing that vision to life is Executive Chef Víctor Valverde. Having worked alongside Martín Berasategui in San Sebastián and Sergi Arola in Madrid before refining his craft in London, Valverde returned to Lanzarote convinced that the island itself offered one of Spain’s most extraordinary pantries. His cooking is intelligent rather than theatrical, quietly confident rather than ostentatious. Technique is never there to steal the spotlight; instead, it serves a single purpose — allowing exceptional ingredients to express themselves with complete clarity.

That philosophy begins with an unwavering commitment to the island itself. More than ninety per cent of the ingredients used in the kitchen come from Lanzarote. Award-winning cheeses from Finca de Uga, organic vegetables grown around Teguise, tomatoes from Tinajo, potatoes from Los Valles, Atlantic fish landed in La Graciosa, Canarian black pork and the distinctive wines of La Geria all become part of a menu that celebrates not only the island’s remarkable produce but also the fishermen, farmers, cheesemakers and winemakers who preserve its identity every day.

The restaurant’s signature experience is its tasting menu, also available in a shorter version, offering what feels less like a succession of dishes than a carefully composed journey across Lanzarote. It opens with Uga salmon served as an elegant nigiri on crisp rice alongside Gran Canaria stracciatella before moving towards a refreshing pitaya salmorejo made with fruit from Tinajo. The Atlantic then takes centre stage through delicately prepared Medregal, the celebrated La Santa prawn and, inevitably, the magnificent Carabinero de La Santa, transformed into a refined raviolo that allows its extraordinary sweetness to remain the undisputed protagonist.

Later comes perfectly cooked local cherne with silky pil pil and vibrant mojo, before Canarian black pork is served alongside smoked sweet potato and crisp potatoes from Los Valles. Dessert completes the journey through the island’s landscape with prickly pear, the iconic tuno indio that punctuates Lanzarote’s volcanic scenery, alongside notes of rum, almond and gofio, bringing the experience to a conclusion that feels unmistakably Canarian.

 

The wine programme deserves equal attention. Palacio Ico has quietly assembled one of Lanzarote’s most respected cellars, recognised by several of Spain’s leading gastronomic publications and specialist wine guides. Naturally, volcanic Malvasías from La Geria play a starring role, while thoughtfully curated pairings also introduce outstanding wines from across mainland Spain and Europe. Whether choosing the Classic, Premium or Experience pairing, the selection reflects the same philosophy as the kitchen: celebrating terroir, craftsmanship and authenticity above all else.

There is an honesty to Palacio Ico that feels deeply connected to Lanzarote itself. Nothing appears designed merely to impress. Every ingredient has a purpose. Every producer has a story. Every course carries a sense of place. Like César Manrique’s architecture, the restaurant never competes with its surroundings; instead, it celebrates them with quiet confidence and remarkable restraint.

Travellers come to Lanzarote for Timanfaya’s otherworldly lava fields, the Atlantic surf at Famara, the vineyards of La Geria and the timeless creations of César Manrique. They should also come hungry. Because the best way to understand Lanzarote is not only to explore it, but to taste it.And few tables tell the story of this extraordinary island more beautifully than Palacio Ico.

Later comes perfectly cooked local cherne with silky pil pil and vibrant mojo, before Canarian black pork is served alongside smoked sweet potato and crisp potatoes from Los Valles. Dessert completes the journey through the island’s landscape with prickly pear, the iconic tuno indio that punctuates Lanzarote’s volcanic scenery, alongside notes of rum, almond and gofio, bringing the experience to a conclusion that feels unmistakably Canarian.

The wine programme deserves equal attention. Palacio Ico has quietly assembled one of Lanzarote’s most respected cellars, recognised by several of Spain’s leading gastronomic publications and specialist wine guides. Naturally, volcanic Malvasías from La Geria play a starring role, while thoughtfully curated pairings also introduce outstanding wines from across mainland Spain and Europe. Whether choosing the Classic, Premium or Experience pairing, the selection reflects the same philosophy as the kitchen: celebrating terroir, craftsmanship and authenticity above all else.

There is an honesty to Palacio Ico that feels deeply connected to Lanzarote itself. Nothing appears designed merely to impress. Every ingredient has a purpose. Every producer has a story. Every course carries a sense of place. Like César Manrique’s architecture, the restaurant never competes with its surroundings; instead, it celebrates them with quiet confidence and remarkable restraint.

Travellers come to Lanzarote for Timanfaya’s otherworldly lava fields, the Atlantic surf at Famara, the vineyards of La Geria and the timeless creations of César Manrique. They should also come hungry. Because the best way to understand Lanzarote is not only to explore it, but to taste it.And few tables tell the story of this extraordinary island more beautifully than Palacio Ico.


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